Mowing
Mowing is an important part of your yard. Check out my mowing tips!

Pavers
Pavers - How to install.

Trees
How to plant a tree.

Water
Water - You can't count on rain.

Mowing

How to mow
Proper mowing can mean the difference between a so-so lawn and a great one. There are a few simple decisions to make when mowing that make a difference in your lawn.

How high to mow?
Grass generally performs best when mowed at one of the higher settings on your mower - especially in hot summer weather.

• Avoid scalping at all costs.
• Never cut off more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blades in a single mowing. If lawn growth gets ahead of you, mow it at a higher length, then lower blade and mow again a few days later.

Recommended mowing heights by grass type

Grass	Minimum Height	Maximum Height
Fine Fescue	1 1/2"	2 1/2"
Kentucky Bluegrass	1 1/2"	2 1/2"
Ryegrass	1 1/2"	2 1/2"
Bahiagrass	2"	4"
Bermudagrass	1/2"	2"
Buffalograss	2"	3"
Carpetgrass	2"	3"
Centipedegrass	1:	1 1/2"
St. Augustinegrass/Floratam	2"	4"
Zoysiagrass	3/4"	2"

How often to mow?
Once a week is usually sufficient. In spring, when grass is growing more rapidly, mowing twice a week may be necessary to avoid removing more than 1/3 the length of the grass blades.

Blade sharpness
Keep mower blade sharp. Mowing with a dull blade tears the ends of grass blades, leaving ragged ends which later turn brown, giving the lawn a dried-out look. Such grass blade damage also encourages the spread of fungus disease.

Other tips

• Mow in different directions (diagonal, horizontal, vertical patterns) each time you mow to prevent "leaning" of grass blades in your lawn.
• Avoid making sharp turns with the mower. Use sidewalks and driveways as a place to turn the mower, or make "header strips" and turn the mower at the end of each row when you reach the header.
• Never mow a wet lawn, as this can lead to uneven cuts and invites fungus to your lawn.
• Get the "striped" or "checkerboard" look, like on a professional baseball field, by placing a roller on your mower. These can be purchased at many hardware stores.

Mower Maintenance
Undoubtedly, you spent a considerable amount of money on your lawn mower and you want that investment to last. After all, your mower is an important component in maintaining an attractive lawn. With proper maintenance, your lawn mower should last for many years. In fact, some lawn mower owners have even claimed to use the same mower for 20 years or more! First, you should always consult your owner's manual. It will tell you the type of oil to use and other important maintenance tips. If you lost your owner's manual, try contacting the company to get a new one. Short of consulting the manual, here are some suggestions for maintaining your mower.Get the "striped" or "checkerboard" look, like on a professional baseball field, by placing a roller on your mower. These can be purchased at many hardware stores.

Replace the fluids
Replace the oil and add fresh gasoline to the tank. Consult your owner's manual for oil recommendations. If you don't have a manual, then check with a local shop that sells and repairs mowers.

Replace the air filter
If your air filter is dirty, you should replace it immediately. A dirty air filter will overwork the engine, which wastes fuel. A clean air filter prevents air particles from entering the internal part of the engine, which can wear it down over time. It is also beneficial to the environment. As a rule of thumb, a filter will need replacing after 25 hours of use.

Check the spark plug
Check and replace the spark plug. You can use a spark plug gauge to check the gap. Your manual should suggest the proper gap thickness. If the gap is too thick, or if the porcelain section of the plug is cracked or broken, you should replace the plug.

Sharpen the blade
Sharpen the blade. A dull blade will tear the grass instead of cutting it cleanly. This not only looks unsightly, it can lead to a diseased lawn. You should periodically check your blade for sharpness. A dull blade can be sharpened with a file, or a power tool. You can find a grinding tool for sharpening blades that can be attached to your drill or a utility tool, such as a Dremel. If you are unsure about doing it yourself, then take the blade to a local mower maintenance store and for a few bucks you can have it done for you.

Check the tires/wheels
Check tires/wheels and loose parts. Check the air pressure in the tires and lubricate wheels. Inspect the mower for any loose parts, including belts and drive chains.

Ongoing Maintenance
Periodically check the blade for sharpness. An easy way to tell if you blade is dull, is to inspect the grass after mowing. If the tips of the grass blades look ragged, or torn, then the blade needs sharpening. Before starting the mower, always check the oil level to be sure it is filled to the proper level. After mowing, clean the underside of the mower deck and wipe any grass clippings off of the mower.

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Pavers

Unilock has the most comprehensive instructions available anywhere in North America. Take your time and read the instructions carefully.

Planning and Design
Planning starts with a clear idea of what you want to accomplish. A detailed, measurement inclusive sketch of the overall area is necessary to determine product quantities and project budget. This can range from a simple, drawn sketch or one completed by a landscape professional. With this sketch we are able to determine the quantity of materials required for your project.

Base Preparation
Begin by marking out the area to be excavated. Excavating removes loose top soil or fill and allows for the placement of a compacted granular base. Small areas are easy to excavate by hand, but for larger areas you may wish to hire an excavating contractor.

BEFORE YOU DIG!
You need to call local utility companies (eg: phone, gas and electric) to ensure the area in which you plan to dig is clear of underground cables or pipes. Technicians will come and mark these areas, usually at no charge. We have seen television cable buried less than 8".

Excavate to the proper depth
Always excavate the area to be paved slightly wider to give you some breathing room. For a backyard patio or walkway, remove only the loose topsoil and sod. For a driveway a much thicker base is required. An attractive alternative to excavating for a patio is creating a raised patio using a retaining wall edge. This eliminates having to get rid of the removed soil if you can afford the extra height.

Follow the contour
Try not to disturb the packed topsoil where possible. This will help in the compaction of the new granular fill and will help reduce the amount of settling afterwards. Use a flat ended shovel to keep the base flat and smooth.

Prepare the Base Material
Fill the area with the correct amount of granular material. Grade your base material as closely as possible to the final contour of the patio surface. Remember to slope all installations away from the house for drainage purposes. At least 1/4" per foot slope. Different grades of granular screenings are used depending on the depth of material required.

Compacting the granular base
The base preparation is the most important part of the entire process. Appropriate base material, thickness, and compaction are essential to ensure your installation will last a lifetime. Use a plate compactor and firmly compact the gravel base material. For best results compact no more than 3" of granular at one time. Most compactors like the one shown here are not capable of compacting more than 3" at a time. A hand tamper can be used in tight areas or when building steps.

Screeding
Pavers are laid on a bed of coarse sand or fine screenings. This bed should be 1" to 1-1/2" thick, no more, and is placed directly on the compacted granular base.

Using a screed guide (1 to 1-1/2" galvanized pipe) placed on the granular base, level the sand or screenings. The pipe can be obtained at most major plumbing or hardware stores.

Level and slope
Level the sand or screenings evenly by pulling a straight board along the guides. You can check the final level of the pavers by placing a paver on a guide. Remember to maintain drainage slope (1/4" per foot). Once you have completed an area remove the pipe guides, fill in the grooves, and continue screeding.

Laying
Begin by placing the pavers directly on the screeded bed, leaving a small space, approximately 1/8" (3mm) between each paver. Start laying along the longest straight side of the area to keep lines straight. This will minimize the amount of cutting required.

Soldier Coursing
It is important that the lines of your pavers are square, 90 degrees to each other, to fit properly. If you are installing circles, fans or a soldier course (a border of pavers around the perimeter of the the area) you will want to place these first before installing the rest of the pattern. Pattern designs are available for most paving brick.

Cutting
You may need to cut pavers that don't fit along edges or around objects. Mark the pavers and cut with a Guillotine cutter or masonry saw. A guillotine cutter is the easiest method of cutting but for an exact cut a masonry saw works best.

If you are renting a masonry saw to cut edge pieces it might be advisable to mark all the stones and cut them all at one time after the bulk of the stones have been put into place. This will save rental $$$

Both Guillotines and Masonry Saws are available at local Rental Equipment centers.

Edge Restraints
Edge restraints are a critical element to the durability of a paver installation. They prevent the pavers from moving and shifting over time. Especially in the early spring when the ground is soggy. Various edge restraints are available and can be used in both straight, inside and outside curves.

Compacting the Pavers
After the installation is complete, including edge restraints, the pavers must be swept clean and then compacted with a plate compactor. This helps settle the pavers into the bedding course and creates a smooth flat finish. The compactor will not harm the paving stone.

Jointing Sand
Sweeping specially graded jointing sand into the joints of the pavers further locks the pavers together. The use of a Polymeric Jointing sand can help prevent the sand from running out of the joints as well as reduce or eliminate any future weed growth. It is important to keep the joints filled to the top.

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Trees

How to Plant a Tree
How to plant a tree - in loose, well drained soil, dig the hole two times the width of the root spread, soil ball, or container size of the tree. Dig as deep as the root system, but not much deeper so that when you have finished planting the tree is just as deep in the new location as in the old. Flatten the bottom of the hole and stand in it to firm the soil so that the tree doesn't settle in deeper later. Backfill the hole halfway with soil then fill hole 3/4 with water. Fill remaining hold to top, make sure you remove air pockets from the hole. Use excess soil to build a ring of soil around dripline of tree about 2-3" in height. Now add mulch over the entire planting area of hole.

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Water

Water - You Can't Count On Rain!
Plants need at least one deep watering week. The easiest way to do this is to set your hose in the plant bed and let it trickle overnight.

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